The 512 TR sports a 4.9-litre (4,943 cc or 301.6 cu in) Ferrari flat-12 engine longitudinally mid mounted.  Each cylinder has four valves, with forty-eight valves total, lubricated via a dry sump system, and a compression ratio of 10.00:1. These combine to provide a maximum torque of 491 newton metres (362 ft⋅lbf) at 5500 rpm and a maximum power of 319 kilowatts (434 PS; 428 hp) at 6750 rpm.

I’m doing this by memory so there may be a few things I left out.. please add in if I did. BECARFUL doing this. Always have somebody check on you, better yet have a helper with you at all times. Take full precautions for safety and have a fire extinguisher around at all times, just in case.

You do NOT have to disconnect the AC System, when you have the engine cradle loose and rolled backwards a few inches, you can – with some difficulty – get to AC Compressor brackets and bolts and remove them, then just tie up the AC Pump somewhere. This will keep you from having to evacuate and refill the system.

1. Open hatch

2. drain engine oil from tank and sump.

3. Drain coolant from rads and block

4. remove A/C system coolant.

5. Remove forward grill panel that is just behind the back glass. (4 10mm nuts)

6. Remove painted panel also (10mm bolts)

7. Disconnect battery.

Center disconnects

1. open a beer

2. remove air box assembly

3. remove exhaust cover/heatshield, that is under the air box intake

4. remove cotter pin from throttle cable end. Unscrew the insert, pop throttle cable off the ball stud. Using 2 8mm wrenches remove the socket and the jam nut from the cable. Reach around the fuel distributors and find the cable..give it a good tug and pull it out.

5. undo the clutch slave cylinder line from the top of the bell housing, plug the end so it won’t leak. And move it out of the way of the engine.

Left side disconnects

1. unplug the 2 connectors that are located under the coolant expansion tank

2. Undo the vacuum brake booster hose from the left intake plenum and the vacuum pump (just follow the hose). Move it out of the way of the ignition wires.

3. Disconnect both coil wires from the coils.

4. Remove alternator cooling duct and move to the side

5. remove large CCV system hose near the front left of the intake manifold. This hose goes to the oil tank, from the cam cover cross over pipe.

5. Remove both 1/4 inch vac lines from the front of the left intake manifold, move them out of the way so they clear the engine.

6. Undo fuel line from fuel filter

7. undo fuel return line which is located just below the alternator air pipe in between the upper and lower intakes.

Right side disconnects

1. undo EVAP lines from both upper intake manifolds at the rear. pull them clear of the engine.

2. Undo the large and small screw type connections at the relay box just behind the ECU’s above the right rear fender in the engine compartment.

3. remove the connections from the ECU’s by pushing the retaining clip back and lifting up on the connector, they kinda tilt out of there.

4. remove purge valve with vacuum lines attached, located near right side oil cooler just behind one of the coolant pipes. its held on by 1 10mm nut.

5. Unclip harness from its keepers and drape over the engine to keep it out of the way.

6. Below the ECU’s and just below where the large harness clip is, is a small panel which is held on by 2 10mm bolts, remove this panel. Under it you will find the cat ECU’s. Unplug the 2 large connections, and just set it back in position for now.

7. Follow the temp sensor lines (they look like silver wire) and undo all the retaining clips with a 10mm socket or wrench that you can get at for now.

8. Undo the O2 sensor connections, and remove retaining brackets from the bell housing. Mark them before you do so so you put them back the right way.

8. Undo fuel line from fuel filter

9. Undo fuel return line at the front of the engine this one is located in pretty much the same spot as the left one except on the right side.

Upper fire wall disconnects

1. Undo the upper rad hose at both ends, remove hose.

2. drain the A?C system and remove both a/c compressor fittings and move the out of the way.

3. Looking form the passenger side of the engine compartment just in front of the timing cover, you will see the water pump/lower rad hose. Undo the clamp at the pipe with a 6mm socket and rachet, a bit tricky to get at. You don’t need to remove the hose, just as long as it loose it will slide off when the engine is lowered out.

under the car.

Working from the rear:

1. remove both rear wheels.

2. at the bottom of the rear fender well, you will see 2 10mm bolts, remove them on both sides.

3. remove center grill that sits between the exhaust tips, and the 2 brackets.

4. undo and remove the lower valance panel I think is a total of 8 bolts including the fender well bolts you removed earlier.

5. Remove the bumper. 4 10mm allen head bolts and 4 17mm nuts. Undo the electrical connection for the plate lights on the right side.

6. Now you can see the rest of the clips that hold the cat temp wires to the car. Undo the nuts and remove the wiring from the frame.

7. remove the brake cooling ducts from both sides

8. undo parking brake cable

9. undo brake line on right hand side and plug the end of the line so it so it won’t leak.

10. remove large under panel that covers the fuel tanks.

11. locate shift rod, and follow it back until you see the turn buckle. Loosen the 2 19mm jam nuts, place trans in 2nd gear it makes it easier to undo the nuts.

12. undo and remove the bolt which connects the shift rod to the trans.

13. Once the rod is removed, and free of the trans, push the assembly back towards the front of the car, and unscrew the shift rod and remove (a little tricky)

14. Remove oil filter.

15. Locate to 2 large oil lines that go to the engine sump and oil filter housing. Undo both of these lines, (the large lower on first,then the smaller one above it.

16. On the right side, you will have to reach up and undo the heater hose connection at the down pipe which is fastened to the right side timing belt cover. Use a 6mm rachet and once loose give it a bit of a twist and pull it off the pipe, you will get a bit wet when doing this.

17. One the left, undo the large red battery connector right near the oil tank.

18. Undo the clamp that holds the air pump intake air hose and remove the hose from the air pump and push it out of the way of the engine.

20. Locate throttle cable, and pull down and out and let it hang under the car.

back up top:

1. Remove the 4 nuts and bolts the fasten the muffler to the brackets at the rear of the car.

2. Now you can take the panel that we undid earlier and with the temp sensor lines still attached to the cat ECU’s and rest it some place safe on the engine.

Inner fender wells.

1.Locate the shocks. above you will see where they are mounted to the car. undo the 2 17mm nuts and the outside 13mm nuts on all 4 shocks. There is no need to undo the inside 13mm nut. Remove all washers as well from the studs you removed the nuts from.

2. Fully support the engine assembly and remove the 16 nuts and bolts from the front sub frame mounts 19mm.

3. Now undo the 4 large nuts and bolts from the rear of the car.

4. carefully lower the engine out on your stand.

10. have a beer.

TR ENGINE/TRANS REMOVAL (by Ric Rainbolt)

The TR engine can be removed “at home”, but extra care must be taken. The depth of usable space in your garage must be about 1.5 times the length of the car. The method I use is to place the front wheels on something about 4 inches high, like a suitably rated set of roller crate palettes (1200 lbs each) or some 2x8s or 2x10s. This way you can avoid removing the front sub-spoiler when you jack the back end up high enough to remove the engine. Here are the basic steps. Some may be slightly out of order.

1) Disconnect battery by turning off the main switch in the front bonnet.

2) Remove the rear bumper. Be prepared when you slide it out, as it’s fairly heavy. You’ll need a soft place to set it in order to not scratch the paint.

3) Drain the engine oil from the tank and the engine. Drain the coolant from the radiators and the rear of the heads. The fuel tank needs to be less than about 1/3 full.

4) Disconnect the hoses and connections. These include: fuel lines, brakes, coolant, air ducts, brake vacuum lines and oil lines. An extra large metric wrench is needed for the large oil line fittings. There are several fuel return lines between the motor and fuel tanks that are easy to miss. On euro cars, there are two electrical harness to disconnect plus the main battery clip (up near the oil tank). On US cars, I think there are one or two more electrical connectors. Also, the handbrake cable should be disconnected at the “U” pulley.

5) Put the transmission in 2nd and disconnect the shift shaft without knocking it out of gear. Once the shaft is disconnected, put the cockpit lever in 3rd.

6) There is no need to remove the rear wheels, half axles, oil tank, coolant expansion tank, ignition modules, spark wires, ignition caps, etc.

7) Remove the muffler(s). You should not have to remove to cats or the > headers. > > 8) Place the front wheels on something about 4 inches high (Boards, roller crate palette, etc).

9) There are 16 bolts in the front and about 6 in rear of the engine that hold the engine sub-frame to the main chassis. I remove 3 bolts from each cluster of 4 in the front, and all but the two rearmost bolts in the rear.

10) Two nuts must be removed from the top of each of the 4 rear shock absorbers. If you clean that area off, you can tell which ones need to be removed and which ones don’t.

11) At this point, you’re ready to raise the chassis, while the engine sub-frame stays on the ground. When the sub-frame is loose, it’s *front-heavy*, so you’ll need some sort of support under the front of the engine. I use a flat roller palette with a pair of 2×8’s to support the front of the engine.

12) Using two floor jacks on opposite sides of the car, begin to raise the chassis on the frame rail ‘Y’, just in front of the radiators. Only raise the floor jacks just enough to support the chassis. Don’t raise it very much at this point (1/2 inch).

13) Carefully remove the remaining bolts holding the sub-frame. Keep in mind that the sub-frame may shift so don’t get any personal parts in between anything that they might get smashed.

14) Slowly raise the chassis off the engine sub-frame. If the sub-frame wants to stay with the chassis, stop and find out why. DON’T KEEP LIFTING! Sometimes, the threads on the shock absorber towers will hang on the sheet metal, so be wary of that.

15) Once the frame is about 6-8 inches above the sub-chassis. You have to roll the engine back 4-6 inches to keep the transmission shift shaft from getting bent.

16) As you roll the engine back, the limiting factor will be: a) the clearance of the wheel arches to the tires AND the right hand cam belt cover clearing the oil radiator fan assembly. Letting some (not all!) of the air out of the rear tires will gain you an extra inch or two for getting the engine below the wheel arches.

18) Continue to raise the chassis, keeping a careful eye for binding items > > or forgotten hoses, wires, etc. Also, make sure the front sub-spoiler doesn’t reach the ground and get crushed.

19) Roll the engine back and away from the car.

20) Lower the chassis and support it on jack stands.

Extra notes:

a) You will get fluid(s) everywhere. Without a chassis lift, I doubt it’s even possible to get a TR motor out without at least a little spillage of some sort.

b) The first time I did this, it took about 20 hours total, and the intermittent help (5 hours) of 3 other people. The second time I did this, I did it entirely myself in about 7-ish hours. I recommend at least 2 people be present (for extra eyes and for safety).

c) Have a good Halon fire extinguisher nearby, just in case.